So You Want to Buy a Watch?

A three-step guide to everything you need to know.

Sooo you want to buy a watch but you’re not sure where to start. Finding the right watch is really more than a search—it’s an intimate ritual. A nod to what you value and to the version of yourself you want to carry into the world.

By now, we know that what we buy and what we wear are quiet markers of who we are—an unspoken note in each detail. Watches, though, are sharper in their message. We may have closets full of clothes, but far fewer watches. Each one a punctuation in how we present ourselves; a proclamation that cuts through, and honestly, a great conversation starter.

Regardless of your preferences—if you like the polish of something new or the held history of vintage—here is the step-by-step method to the madness and help you find the one that feels like it’s already yours.

STEP 1

Define your budget

Decide how much you’re willing to spend. Watches, like art or real estate, exist on a spectrum—from accessible, everyday wearables to rarer collectibles that make your heart skip (and your wallet wince). Consider your budget as a compass, helping you navigate the market without getting lost.

Think of it this way: a budget doesn’t limit your choices, it refines them. It allows you to focus on what might matter most to you—craftsmanship, brand heritage, or that one detail you can’t stop thinking about. Know what you’re comfortable investing in and where you might flex. 

The perfect vintage Cartier Tank, signed 'France' rather than 'Paris'

STEP 2

Find your target

With any major purchase, it pays to know exactly what you’re after. Firstly, narrow down the style: classic, sporty, or maybe something with the elegance of fine jewelry. If you’re anything like I am, you can expect late-night rabbit holes, a messy camera roll filled with screenshots, and plenty of scrolling—definitely enough to recalibrate all your targeted ads. 

Where to start for inspiration? The usual haunts: Pinterest and Instagram. Pinterest is great for building a framework—shaping an idea of what you’re drawn to. Then move to Instagram for the specifics. It’s teeming with dealers, but the best accounts have a point of view. Look for a curation that resonates. A few of my personal favorites: Doble Vintage Watches, Noah Noah Noah, Bijoux Miller, and when she has them in stock, The Millennial Decorator.

If you want to take matters into your own hands and build a vision of your own, start researching by brand. Vintage Audemars Piguet, for example, offers far more than the Royal Oak—I’ve been eyeing the Bamboo AP from the ‘70s and ‘80s. Or maybe a '20s cocktail watch catches your attention. Elegant and unexpected, like a diamond tennis bracelet with a dial. I like to keep a revolving wishlist and the watches that linger on there, enduring my fleeting whims (read: short attention span), are the ones I know are worth it.

If you can, take your hunt offline and try a few on. This part is a bit like finding your signature scent—what looks perfect on paper (realistically, a screen) can feel unexpectedly out of sync on your wrist. And you just might stumble across something unassuming that turns out to be the perfect fit.

JUST A TIP:

Once you’ve zeroed in on your watch, Chrono24 can be a powerful tool for the vintage or second-hand hunt. It’s a marketplace just for watches, complete with a feature that tracks how a watch model’s price shifts over time. This lets you gauge what’s fair and what’s a trend, helping you decide if and when to make your move.

Daniel Roth Minis—ridiculously adorable and equally hard to find

STEP 3

“Buy the seller, not the watch”

This step matters most when it comes to vintage watches. Retail boutiques and authorized dealers come with a glossy certainty, but with vintage or second-hand, it’s chess, not checkers. A striking watch (or price point) loses its allure if its history is questionable—or worse, rewritten. If you’re browsing dealers, auction houses, or scrolling online, vetting your seller is non-negotiable.

If you’re browsing online, transparency is key. You’re looking for sharp photos, detailed descriptions, and a seller with a track record. But don’t stop there—reach out. Be it through a DM, email, or text, a good seller will take the time to answer your questions and provide clarity. The best ones will share the watch’s provenance, nuances, and quirks that give a watch its character. Buying vintage isn’t just about finding the watch; it’s about trusting the hands that are passing it to you.

Beyond the seller’s reputation, the condition of the watch is where your attention should land. Is it keeping time consistently? Has it been recently serviced? If it's not, consider making room in your budget to take it somewhere trustworthy. And, most importantly, does it come with a solid guarantee? Forget box and papers—they’re easily faked or sourced on the side and won’t tell you much about the state of the watch.

Steve Kivel of Grand Central Watch, a third-generation repair shop nestled in Grand Central Station, warns that a one-year guarantee should raise alarms: it’s a sign of subpar servicing. Proper care ensures a watch will run smoothly for at least two years. Anything less, and you’re buying a short-term fix. A two-year guarantee isn’t just a nice touch; it’s the foundation of confidence in both the repair and the watch’s future.

Take your time and do your research—it’s crucial here. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre magic—a Calibre 101 watch and a watch ring from the '50s to pair with it

Now you’re armed with everything you need:

A clear sense of style, a budget that keeps you grounded, and enough knowledge to spot a winner. The next move is entirely yours.

A great watch will feel like it’s been waiting for you, whether it’s tucked into the corner of a boutique or the depths of the internet. Trust your judgement, and above all, buy what you love—ignore the peanut gallery. In the end, this isn’t a rushed decision; it’s deliberate, almost meditative. Do your research, take your time, and let your instincts lead you to the right one.

And DM me your photos, please!